Visit Victoria Cave – Settle

Some folk may be thinking about royal coronations and Yorkshire has its own memorial to Queen Victoria’s. One of several caves (32) in Craven was discovered in 1838 and named Victoria cave after her coronation. It may not be the oldest bone-cave nor the first to be discovered in Britain but it’s discovery fired the imagination of Victorian archaeologist.

Victoria cave entrance

History of Victoria Cave

The modern history of the cave’s discovery is based on the dog of Michael Horner from Settle. The dog is said to have been chasing a fox down a hole and it squeezed through into the cave back in 1837.
Joseph Jackson with William Boyd and R Tiddeman organised excavations.
At three different layers in the cave, discoveries showed earlier occupation. Bones of animals that resembled elephants, hyenas and other tropical beasts were the earliest bone-cave remnants at 130,000 years old (dated to an Upper Pleistocene interglacial time.) The onset of the great Ice Age covered these remains under deep clay.
As the Ice retreated in the Mesolithic era 6000 B.C. man occupied the cave leaving harpoons and tools of the Azilian culture and then more bones and some iron age relics.
The Romans may have used the cave as a dwelling and enameled jewellery, bronze and more bones dating back to 250-360 A.D. were also recovered.
split sky

Location of Victoria Cave

The cave is situated 1450 feet above the current sea level amongst the Langcliffe scars.
It faces west with ‘bastions and ramparts of limestone leading down to green pasture.
The area is part of the Craven Fault and is within 2 miles of Settle.
Jubilee Cave and Attamire cave can be found very near by.
A favourite walk heads out of settle towards Langcliffe and Stainforth turning right at Catrigg Force.

Photo credits
‘Victoria cave entrance’ by Dissonancefalling ‘when excavated, somewhat destructively, bones dating back 130000 years were found as well as 11000 year old harpoon tip which is first evidence of people in the dales.
Large amounts of Roman artifacts were found as well.’
and ‘split sky’ by Dissonancefalling CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

‘The well known caves along the Attermire Scar are Jubilee Cave, Albert Cave, Victoria Cave and Attermire Cave (AT29). These have all produced archaeological artefacts but are also the caves that are under the most serious threat from both cavers and the casual visitor.’ Read more on pdf Audit of Archaeological Cave Resources in the Yorkshire Dales National Parks

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Filey Butlin’s Holiday Camp

Book Cover
Our True Intent is all for Your Delight: The John Hinde Butlin’s Photographs

Billy Butlin built his third Butlins Holiday camp at Filey starting just before the war in 1939. A special deal was struck when Clacton, Skegness and Filey camps were requisitioned for the war effort. Filey’s new buildings were used as RAF Hunmanby Moor a base for over 6000 military personnel until 1945 when it officially (re-)opened as a holiday camp. Filey camp at Hunmanby Gap was Billy Butlin’s pride and joy and was also the biggest with 400 acres and accommodating 11,000 campers. It was said to be the “king” amongst holiday camps, the jewel in Butlin’s crown.

The camp had its own railway station appropriately called ‘Filey Holiday Camp’ built for holiday makers. Inside the camp there was a minature railway, a chair lift and a train to take campers to their chalets. It also boasted “the longest bar in the world” and an exact replica of the bar at Westminster called the Parliament Bar. Paul McCartney was one of the many to have stayed at Filey as part of a family holiday and may have made his first ever stage appearance in a talent contest.

In 1983 after Billy Butlin’s death the camp was closed and put on the market and has never been the same since. In it’s hey-day it had been a major economic force employing 1500 people and boosting the local economy. There is little trace left now except the memories. There is an archive at Bridlington Library and Remember Butlins Filey web site

Filey was the largest and best Butlin’s in its day

 

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KP Nuts – Peanuts from 1853

 

KP salted Peanuts can be dated back to 1853 in Rotherham and a firm called Kenyon Son & Craven. At the beginning of the 20th century the company had factories in Hull and Rotherham making jams, pickles and sweets. One early speciality was ‘Hercules Peanuts and Rasins’

Ever ones to spot a bargain Kenyon’s used to buy raw material from markets at the end of the day especially when there was a glut of a commodity. The early days were financially tight and it wasn’t until after the war in the 1940’s that things started to look-up. Hazelnuts became available in 1948 and a secondhand gas fryer was bought to cook the nuts. In the early 1950’s they supplied Bassetts with ground coconut and in 1951 were selling Roasted and Salted Almonds in see through packets retailing at 6d.

In 1953 a hundred years after the company started Peanuts took centre stage with the introduction of the aggressively price 2d ‘KP Nuts’. KP was named after Kenyon Produce and the branding and quality improvements helped drive rapid growth. By the end of the 1960’s KP Nuts were market leader and this attracted the big food company United Biscuits who bought out Kenyon’s when the turnover was circa £5million. By 1971 they were producing and selling 7 tons an hour to satisfy the nations nut appetite.

Odd bits about Peanuts

Continue reading

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Speak up for Yorkshire

Settle and dent
 

Wikipedia’s Yorkshire

Within the borders of this great historic county of Yorkshire are areas which are widely considered to be among the greenest in England, due to both the vast stretches of unspoiled countryside in two National Parks the Yorkshire Dales plus North York Moors. Yorkshire has sometimes been nicknamed God’s Own County hence the title of our web site.
The emblem of Yorkshire is the white rose of the English royal House of York hence our logo. The most commonly used flag representative of Yorkshire is the White Rose on a dark blue background, which after years of use, was fully recognised by the Flag Institute in 2008.

Yorkshire Language

As befits such a large county Yorkshire has its own language and dialect. Who would have linked the Old Norse words like ‘ars’ in Yorkshire ‘arse’ meaning posterior, bottom, back, behind, buttocks; back of a cart or wagon; back of something as in the “arse end of…” . Or try ‘Skita’ in old Norse leading to ‘skitters’ meaning diarrhoea . There are many more examples in Old English or Old Norse on Yorkshire Dialect. I am drawn to ‘bait’ to feed, to offer food; a packed meal; contents of a lunchbox from ‘Beit’ middin, midden dung heap, rubbish tip, dustbin ‘myki-dyngja’ and ‘sackless’ ineffectual, simple-minded, lacking in energy or effort; also innocent of wrong intent ‘saklauss’ but happen I’m just laikin’ around.
This Yorkshire Dialect site also links to a wealth of poetry, prose and academic Yorkshire linguistics.

Yorkshire Dialect Society

The Yorkshire Dialect Society is 112 years old and owes its existance to Joseph Wright an amazing Yorkshireman. ‘Born in 1855 in Idle, he started work at the age of six, and on reaching his teens and while working in one of the many mills in the West Riding, he taught himself to read and write, set up his own night school at home to supplement his income, and went on to become a teacher, and eventually a professor at Oxford.  On 10 November 1894, Professor Wright addressed a meeting about a mammoth project to prepare and publish an English Dialect Dictionary. The committee formed as a result of this meeting, which eventually collected some 350,000 Yorkshire words and phrases, was to be the nucleus of the Yorkshire Dialect Society’.

If it is verse you are after then try Yorkshire Dialect Org who extol you to get published in the following way:-

‘If tha knows nowt, say nowt an appen nob’dy ‘ll notice.
Bur if tha’s gor a bit er verse tha’d leek purrin’ up ere then wang it dahn t’email pipe reet nah.’

So if there is a poem in you ‘Speak up for Yorkshire’  reet nah.


Posted in Our Yorkshire, Yorkshire History and Heritage | 1 Comment

Zeppelin Early Warning Sound Mirrors

Sound Mirrors 4

Between a messenger with a stick in Marathon or a Beacon on top of a hill but before Radar and electronic surveillance there was a humble invention the ‘Sound Mirror’. Development of Beacons moved from one fire for danger to three fires for fear of the Spanish Armada or John Paul Jones fighting off Flamborough Head in 1780. Beacons were our core early warning system around the coast. We even learnt to pour pitch on the fires so smoke could be visible during the day and light seen at night.

Come the Zeppelins in 1915 and these visual aids gave inadequate time to take effective action. Zeppelins started to bomb our steelworks at Skinnington in August 1915 because it was a key factory producing TNT. By the time the Zeppelins were visible the Royal Flying Corp did not have time to launch any defence so the ‘Sound Mirrors’ were created at Boulby Barns, Sunderland, Redcar, Kilnsea and many other sites to listen for the Zeppelin’s Maybach engines.

The ‘Sound Mirrors’
were a ‘U’ shaped, concrete structures comprising a thick wall with an inclined face and a shallow concave bowl shaped into its centre. They have been likened to a concrete goalmouth. On either side of the wall were projecting flanking walls to protect from noise interference and support the structure. The reflected sound was detected by a microphone placed in front of the dish and then transmitted to the headphones of the listener who sat in a trench at the front. They provided an alert not only to the Royal Flying Corps but to the local residents who could take cover as over 100 bombs were aimed at Skinningrove and Boulby. I for one would not want to be so near all that explosive.
In May 1916 an attack by eight Zeppelins with incendiaries still failed to destroy the works but probably roasted a few birds on the moors as loads were dropped on Danby Moor.

The mirror at Kilnsea  worked by focusing the noise of aircraft engines onto a microphone, which amplified the sound. In this way the relatively slow aircraft of the time could be heard and located before they came into view.

The photo is © Copyright (2009) City of Sunderland Council who add the following information on this Grade II listed National Monument ‘The monument includes an early 20th century military early warning device known as a sound mirror. It is located on a gently sloping hillside 2km inland from the coast on the block of land between the Tyne and Wear estuaries. The mirror was part of a chain of similar acoustic devices located on the north east coast extending from the Tyne to the Humber. They were erected to provide early warning of potential attacks on the important industrial complexes in the north east from ships and Zeppelins during World War 1′.
There is a specialist and informative web site for Sound Mirrors maintained by Andrew Graham.
Boulby Sound Mirror

Footnote
More on Boulby
If you want to know more about John Paul Jones and The Battle of Flamborough Head read his own log entry

Captain John Paul Jones joined the American Navy during the American War of Independence, attacking British ships at every opportunity.
The Battle of Flamborough Head took place on 23rd September 1779. Jones, captain of the Bon Homme Richard, set out to raid Leith, a port of Edinburgh, but the winds changed and he had no alternative but to proceed southward. His next attack point was to be Newcastle, to cut off the coal supply to London. Again he was unlucky and continued south to his main quarry near Flamborough Head, a convoy of merchantmen from the Baltic, escorted by HMS Countess of Scarborough and HMS Serapis…… read more at the Bridlington Free Press

Photo credits
Boulby Sound Mirror by twiggles CC BY-SA 2.0
Sound Mirrors 4 by the justified sinner CC BY-NC 2.0

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Welcome to Otley – LS21

Otley Clock

Otley is a thriving market town renowned for the number and quality of its pubs (see earlier posts). The Clock commemorates Queen Victoria’s Jubilee, battles in the Transvaal and war time exploits. Near-by is the Navvies memorial that commemorated those railway workers who died building local tunnels. There is lots to see for history buffs.
The surrounding countryside provides  scope for fishing, clay pigeon shooting, riding and other outdoor sports.
Walking is a major activity as Otley is set in beautiful surroundings close to the Ebor Way and the Dalesway with the new attraction of the Six Dales Trail. This 38 mile route from Otley to Middleham  formally  inaugurated on 26th June 2010 by Janet Street Porter.

Otley still retains it’s cattle market, agricultural suppliers, blacksmiths, paper manufacturers, printers, engineers, lens manufacturers, a busy shopping centre and popular open street markets.
Disappointingly there is a shortage of bed and breakfast and overnight accommodation, surprising for such a bustling town but no shortage of pubs.

Otley from Moors

Top Ten Reasons to Visit Otley

  1. 1000 years of worship and the solid All Saints Church The church are organisers of the Otley Parish Church Beer Festival. A restoration and refurbishment project is currently underway in the church
  2. Thomas Chippendale cabinet maker extraordinaire celebrated by Otley-online
  3. Otley Folk Festival 2010
  4. Otley Show – The agricultural show for Lower Wharfedale first held in 1796.
  5. Wharfedale Morris Dancers the Wayzgoose
  6. Otley Museum
  7. Otley Courthouse cafe and event venue. Celebrating its 10th anniversary with lots of art and shows. Currently raising charitable funds to buy new chairs
  8. Otley Victorian Fayre and Christmas Market
  9. Otley Chevin and the Danefield Estate for walks and views.
  10. Titty Bottle Park and the riverside with a fine weir, ducks and park amenities.

Cloggers Otley

Around the corner is the Otley Lions bookshop that raises funds for good causes using only volunteer staff. Pop in for a chat and a book or two.

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Yorkshire’s Own Delicious Kitchen

Deliciously Yorkshire is not a bad name for the quango that helps to promote the Yorkshire Food Industry. At the Great Yorkshire Show and other events and visitor attractions they often have a stand or a series of stalls for the many niche food producers they support. Now ‘Deliciously Yorkshire’ have produced there own book highlighting more than 470 fabulous producers, restaurants, hotels, cafes and places to visit spread right across the region.
“Buying British, buying locally and buying directly from farmers can all help make a difference in terms of improving our economy, sustainability and food security.” Dr John Sentamu, Archbishop of York”. “Recipes from selected companies are listed in full detail, and there are inserts from some of Yorkshires most famous Chefs, it gives you a sense of how proud the people of Yorkshire are about their region! ” T. Littlewood on Amazon.

Book Cover.

Grubs up – so I am off for my Sunday dinner ‘roast beef and guess what.’

For a slice or two about bread bred in Yorkshire read

Book Cover

In case you are clueless about cooking I can’t resist this book offering from amazon.

Book Cover.

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Shops in Leeds – The Cheap and The Dear

In a recent visit to Leeds, I was disappointed to see a growth in the number of bargain basement, everything for a pound shops, which always appear on the verge of closing down. Perhaps more sad, was the lack of real bookshops, with only Waterstones being a major bookshop left in the city centre

leeds

Mr Price!  Temporary sign to go with temporary business.

At the other extreme, we have Harvey Nichols and haute couture of the Victorian Arcade. I don’t think you would find many things in there for under a £1!
leeds

Nice Bike and Harvey Nichols.

 

The 99p shop has been bought by Poundshop and Poundland is doing well with many items below £1. A proper Trinity if ever there was one.

Fear not the new development at the bottom of the Headrow will have John Lewis as an anchor tenant – never knowingly under blogged.

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Walk Along The Leeds Liverpool Canal

leeds

The Leeds and Liverpool Canal crosses a wonderful part of the country, linking the two industrial cities of Leeds and Liverpool. Over a distance of 127 miles (204 km), it crosses the Pennines, and some of the best scenery in Yorkshire and Lancashire. The canal follows the flatest route possible. But, given the presence of Pennines and other hills the canal includes an inevitable 91 locks on the main canal.

There are several pleasant walks along the banks of the canal. Some of the places the canal passes through include:
# Leeds
# Kirkstall – The old ruined abbey makes an interesting visit
saltaire

Saltaire on a rare perfectly sunny day.

  • Saltaire – visit the old village and mill museum made famous by Sir Titus Salt. More on Saltaire
  • Bingley – The five rise locks
  • Skipton – The Gateway to the Dales, Skipton is the base for many good walks. A thriving market town with inspiring countryside overlooking.
  • Gargrave – One of best locations on edge of Yorkshire Dales. To the north of Gargrave are places such as Malham. A great walk at this point in the canal.
  • Barnoldswick
  • Nelson
  • Burnley
  • Gannow Tunnel
  • Hapton

Leeds Liverpool Canal info at Pennines.org

Photo of Leeds Liverpool canal by Lynne Pettinger

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Steepest Hills in Yorkshire

trooper-lane

Trooper Lane Halifax – 25% Max

If you’re a cyclist in Yorkshire, you’re spoilt for choice if looking for some steepest hill. In the Yorkshire Dales, there are plenty of climbs which touch the dreaded 1 in 4 (or 25% in modern money).

The steepest Hills in Yorkshire

park-rash-corner-river

Park Rash, north of Kettlewell

  • Park Rash ascending from Kettlewell a steep section of 25% on a double haipin bend (makes for a tricky ascent.

 

fleet-moss-descent

  • Fleet Moss from Hawes south. At the top it reaches 22% for a considerable time. It’s a really hard climb and reaches the highest point in Yorkshire

shibden-wall-Halifax

Shibden Wall – 25% cobbled climb near Halifax. Notice steps for pedestrians. Continue reading

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