Gayle 2

Gayle and Duerley Beck by Marie Hartley

Marie Hartley MBE would have been 104 this week had she not died in Askrigg at the age of 100. Fortunately there is a significant legacy of 33 books chronicling the Dales, numerous paintings and wood cuts and The Dales Countryside Museum at Hawes. Marie, born in Morley, went to the Leeds College of Art and the Slade School London where she specialised in wood engraving. She worked with two other redoubtable women Ella Pontefract and then Joan Ingilby.

With fellow Dales affectionado Ella Pontefract they published ‘Wensleydale’ in 1936 and many of the insights remain true today. For example they noted that may villages were built like little clumps up both sides of the valleys but ‘often two of them come together like sisters, as Hawes and Gayle, Bainbridge and Askrigg, Redmire and Castle Bolton.’   In 1936 not unlike now milk and cheese were the most important products of the local farms. Via the Milk Train, over 2 million gallons of milk a year were sent to London as part of the Milk marketing board’s sales campaign, using the Wensleydale Railway.

‘The Old Hand-knitters of the Dales’ was a 1951 book with Joan Ingilby that chronicled the development of knitting throughout the dales. Sold at Richmond Market, stockings and knitware were made in the homes of Gayle long after it declined in other parts of Yorkshire. Knitting started in the mid 16th century and it continued to be a successful activity, employing 400 knitters in Hawes homes, until the advent of machinery towards the end of the 19th century.

Gayle Mill started life in 1784 as a cotton-spinning mill, powered by a 22′ diameter overshot waterwheel, and over the next century, as economic conditions in the Dales changed, was also used for spinning flax and then wool for the local knitting cottage industry in the valley. Marie would be pleased to see the story continue into the 21st century as the latest sustainable technologies enable Gayle Mill to be create all its own carbon-neutral energy for heating and power from it’s reopened water powered generation system. Visit Gayle  Mill and see how it has benefited from the BBC restoration programme.

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Charades will not be the same after the death of Billy Liar the author of ‘Keith Waterhouse. Is it a book, a film or a play? Yes! mimes the reply.

Still fresh after 50 years, Billy Liars’s novel about a compulsive dissembler who can’t handle reality is funny, sweet, and heartbreakingly sad. Set at the tail end of 1950s, the story is told by Keith Waterhouse, who lives with his parents in the fictional Yorkshire town of Stradhoughton. Keith can’t cope with his tedious clerking job at a local funeral parlor, living at home, or really anything about his life, and so, spends a great deal of time escaping into fantasy world in his head called Ambrosia. When he’s not imagining life as prime minister of his make-believe country, he’s spinning mostly purposeless lies to almost everyone he meets. Sometimes he’s lying to cover up real misdeeds, such as his small-time embezzling, other times, his lies are completely pointless, such as telling a friend’s mother about his fictional sister.

Billy grew up in Leeds, and like Waterhouse, worked as a clerk in an undertakers. 50 years since he wrote Keith Waterhouse, which began life as a book before becoming a hit West End play and film. Billy remembers there was a storm of complaints when it first appeared in the theatre because it had the word “bloody” in it. Fifteen times, apparently. Billy describes the word as “innocuous” and wonders what all the fuss was about. So how does the Mail spell it in the headline for the piece on Saturday? “B****y”. Bloody marvellous! says Media Monkey

Billy Liar Quotations.


“To my mind, 90 per cent of the unpleasant things that happen to us are in the name of rationalisation. Counties lose their names, trains lose their livery, ginger snaps lose their flavour and mint humbugs their sharp corners … under my derationalisation programme, Yorkshire would get back its Ridings, the red telephone box would be a preserved species, there would be Pullman cars called Edna, a teashop in every high street and a proper card index in the public library.”

“Should not the Society of Indexers be known as Indexers, Society of, The?”

“I wake up with views the way some people wake up with hangovers. Sometimes I wake up with both, when the confederation of clowns presiding over our destinies had better tread carefully.”"I never drink when I’m writing, but I sometimes write when I drink.”

Billy’s record in Who’s Who lists   his hobby as ‘Lunch’, he created Clogthorpe Council and was also the founder of The Association for the Abolition of the Aberrant Apostrophe 9before Trusses’).

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After selling over 80,000,000 books the Leeds born Barbara Taylor Bradford must certainly be a woman of real substance, even though she now spends most of her money living in the USA. It is 30 years since the 1200 page block buster ‘Woman of Substance’ was released in British book shops and there has been a prolific output of another 24 books, films and TV spinoffs. Not a bad output for a former cub reporter with the Yorkshire Post.

Marrying a Yank (at least he had a Yorkshire surname) Barbara kept her maiden name Taylor but added the alliterative Bradford. After 46 years marriage they still work together “I refer to him as the General,” she says, “and he calls me Napoleon!” Robert Bradford produces all of her mini-series and films, structures her contracts and spearheads all of the activities of ‘the industry that is Barbara Taylor Bradford’. The Napoleon reference is said to be linked to the expat Yorkshire traits of Barbara’s strong will and blunt straight talking, although I never saw Napoleon as a Yorkshire man.

Barbara’s 25th book is ‘Breaking the Rules’ and ia available from the 3rd September 2009
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You can get snippets of Wilfred Pickles as an actor on youtube or watch a full comedy series with Jimmy Jewel from Barnsley on this boxed DVD of More Northern Comedy.

According to wikipedia Wilfred Pickles was a proud Yorkshireman, (aren’t we all) ‘born in Halifax and having been selected by the BBC as an announcer for its North Region radio service, went on to be an occasional newsreader on the National service during World War II. He was the first newsreader to speak in a regional accent rather than the “BBC English” of the period, and caused some comment with his farewell catchphrase “… and to all in the North, good neet”.’

One of his books ‘The Wifred Pickles Gay Street Book’ with Enid Blyton and the Biggles author Captain W.E. Johns, et al. wouldn’t pass the politically correct brigade in current publishing. In the early post war years Wilfred Pickles was as close to a modern day Celebrity as you could get. Wireless was a great medium for developing catch phrases and Wilfred had his fair share including “Give him the money, Mabel”, “How do, How are yer?”, “Give ‘em the money, Barney!” (Barney Colehan) and “Are yer courting?”

The title song to his radio show ‘Have a Go’ will be remembered by the many who attended or listened to the show over it’s 21 years. They never visited the same place twice and had over 1500 outstanding invitations to visit when the show finished.

    “Have a go, Joe, come on and have a go
    You can’t lose owt, it costs you nowt
    To make yourself some dough.
    So hurry up and join us, don’t be shy
    and don’t be slow.
    Come on Joe, have a go!”

Theme and words by Jack Jordan

Mabel, Wilfred’s wife took over ‘at the table’ and Violet Carson (Ena Sharples of Coronation Street) played the piano. The original prize money was 1 pound 18/6, awarded in increments of 2/6, 5/-, 10/- and 1 guinea.

The autobiography of Mabel Pickles by Mabel Myerscough Pickles is still available in some book shops.

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For generations the Foggitt family have kept records of Yorkshire weather and Bill Foggitt one of 13 children turned quirky weather reporting into an art form.  Reporting as far back as the Yarm cloud burst and floods in November 1771 the maintenance of weather records in Wensleydale and Thirsk has remained a Foggitt tradition.

Great-grandfather of Bill was born during the last ‘Little Ice Age’ events that many believe come around every 200 years or so. In 1778 the Thames froze for nine weeks ‘solid’ and in 1814 the last ‘Frost Fare’ took place when elephants were able to walk on the frozen river. Bill had a  great interest and belief in the cyclical nature of these Little Ice Ages and believed a new one probably started at the turn of the 21st Century. Bill recounted  experience from his parents back in 1895 when the winter was one of the severest on record. ‘Water mains throughout Sheffield froze solid and emergency carts had to be used.’

Bill remembered 29th June 1927 when he waited for the total eclipse of the sun as  ‘an errie chill darkness came upon us. The bird’s shrill dawn corus abruptly ceased, recommencing a few minutes later….’   In August 1999 I was walking to Studley Royal when I experienced exactly those sensations but unlike Bill my meusings were never likely to be picked up by the media.

Bill Foggitt (1913-2004) was asked to do a nightly spot on Yorkshire Television in 1980 called Foggitt’s Forecast and he became a local celebrity with predictions often proving more accurate than those of the professionals. His observations of nature’s creatures in relation to the weather, included quirky folk law about the behaviour of seaweed that becomes slimy before rain and pine cones that close up when wet weather threatened, were ideal for the media of the time.
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Light-but-no-Illumination

Light-but-no-Illumination

Why isn’t the position of ‘Crown Steward and Bailiff of the Manor of Northstead’ one of the busiest public offices in Yorkshire? Under the Act of Settlement a person who holds an office of profit under the Crown is disqualified from being an MP. Surely many MPs have treated their job and expense accounts as for personal profit.

The Manor of Northstead was once a collection of fields and farms in the parish of Scalby in the North Riding of Yorkshire. By 1600 the manor house had fallen into disrepair (like the reputation of our Houses of Parliament). The manor was purchased by King Richard III and although Scarborough Corporation purchased the land known as the Northstead Estate from the Crown in 1921, the lordship of the manor was retained by the Crown. The site of what may have been the manor house is now covered by the lake in Peasholm Park.

The position Crown Steward and Bailiff of the Manor of Northstead is now used as a procedural device to effect resignation from the House of Commons, since British MPs are not permitted simply to resign their seat. This office is used alternately with the ‘Crown Steward and Bailiff of the Chiltern Hundreds’ as a means of removing someone who is no longer able or wants to be an MP. Recent holders of the office at the Manor of Northstead include Boris Johnson (too allow him to become Major of London), Peter Mandelson, Enoch Powell, Piers Rolf Garfield Merchant (victim of a kiss and tell sexual affair), Ian Paisley, Robert Kilroy Silk and Mathew Parris.

Come on the ‘Expenses Scallies’ do the decent thing now! Do not wait for the next election to stand down but take up your new post at The Manor of Northstead right now and create some bi-elections.

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Between a messenger with a stick in Marathon or a Beacon on top of a hill but before Radar and electronic surveillance there was a humble invention the ‘Sound Mirror’. Development of Beacons moved from one fire for danger to three fires for fear of the Spanish Armada or John Paul Jones fighting off Flamborough Head in 1780. Beacons were our core early warning system around the coast. We even learnt to pour pitch on the fires so smoke could be visible during the day and light seen at night.

Come the Zeppelins in 1915 and these visual aids gave inadequate time to take effective action. Zeppelins started to bomb our steelworks at Skinnington in August 1915 because it was a key factory producing TNT. By the time the Zeppelins were visible the Royal Flying Corp did not have time to launch any defence so the ‘Sound Mirrors’ were created at Boulby Barns, Sunderland, Redcar, Kilnsea and many other sites to listen for the Zeppelin’s Maybach engines.

The ‘Sound Mirrors’
were a ‘U’ shaped, concrete structures comprising a thick wall with an inclined face and a shallow concave bowl shaped into its centre. They have been likened to a concrete goalmouth. On either side of the wall were projecting flanking walls to protect from noise interference and support the structure. The reflected sound was detected by a microphone placed in front of the dish and then transmitted to the headphones of the listener who sat in a trench at the front. They provided an alert not only to the Royal Flying Corps but to the local residents who could take cover as over 100 bombs were aimed at Skinningrove and Boulby. I for one would not want to be so near all that explosive.
In May 1916 an attack by eight Zeppelins with incendiaries still failed to destroy the works but probably roasted a few birds on the moors as loads were dropped on Danby Moor.

The photo is © Copyright (2009) City of Sunderland Council who add the following information on this Grade II listed National Monument ‘The monument includes an early 20th century military early warning device known as a sound mirror. It is located on a gently sloping hillside 2km inland from the coast on the block of land between the Tyne and Wear estuaries. The mirror was part of a chain of similar acoustic devices located on the north east coast extending from the Tyne to the Humber. They were erected to provide early warning of potential attacks on the important industrial complexes in the north east from ships and Zeppelins during World War 1′.
There is a specialist web site for Sound Mirrors maintained by Andrew Graham.

Footnote
If you want to know more about John Paul Jones and The Battle of Flamborough Head read his own log entry

Captain John Paul Jones joined the American Navy during the American War of Independence, attacking British ships at every opportunity.
The Battle of Flamborough Head took place on 23rd September 1779. Jones, captain of the Bon Homme Richard, set out to raid Leith, a port of Edinburgh, but the winds changed and he had no alternative but to proceed southward. His next attack point was to be Newcastle, to cut off the coal supply to London. Again he was unlucky and continued south to his main quarry near Flamborough Head, a convoy of merchantmen from the Baltic, escorted by HMS Countess of Scarborough and HMS Serapis…… read more at the Bridlington Free Press

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Benjamin Waugh of Settle is credited with forming the National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children (NSPCC) in 1884. With Lord Shaftesbury as president they had 32 national branches or aid committees within 5 years. Each branch raised funds from donations, subscriptions and legacies to support an inspector, who investigated reports of child abuse and neglect.
Queen Victoria became the Royal Patron of the NSPCC in 1895 when it was granted its Royal Charter. It retained the name as NSPCC was already well established and it avoided confusion with the RSPCA which had already existed for more than fifty years. Did and Do we put animals or children first?

Benjamin Waugh was born, the son of a clergyman, in Settle, North Yorkshire and attended theological college in Bradford before moving to London. As a Congregationalist minister in the slums of London, Waugh was appalled at the deprivations and cruelties suffered particularly by workhouse children. In addition to being a founding secretary for the NSPCC he wrote a book ‘The Gaol Cradle, Who Rocks It?’ and subsequently urged the creation of juvenile courts and children’s prisons as a means of diverting children from a life of crime. Waugh worked to raise awareness lobbying government and publishing detailed reports of abuse and neglect. These Victorian values still seem to be required in today’s society see ‘Horrendous Child abuse uncovered in Doncaster’ or the Daily Mirror reported around Christmas 2008  ‘ The serious case review, which Doncaster council slipped quietly on to their website, is the latest scandal to rock social services departments after the death of Baby P. The report branded social services “chaotic and dangerous….’

Read 2 Hours in Settle

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Barbara Hepworth sculptress and artist was a Wakefield lass attending the local Girls High School and then studying at the Leeds School of Art from 1920. She rattled through that course and then won a County scholarship to the Royal College of Art and studied there from 1921. A grant from the West Riding allowed her to study in Italy where she she married fellow artist John Skeaping.

Hepworth was in frequent contact with Henry Moore with whom she had been a student both at Leeds and at the Royal College. The two sculptors had vacations together where in 1937 she met Ben Nicholson and whent to live with him (over ‘t brush). They were later married from 1938 to 1951.
She was made a Dame in 1965, ten years before her death during a fire in her St Ives studio in Cornwall, aged seventy-two

Barbara Hepworth is best known for creating beautiful, flowing and rhythmic sculptures with holes. The materials used included wood, marble or bronze and the piece was often influenced by the organic shapes and contours of nature. There is a permanent outdoor exhibition at Yorkshire Sculpture Park in West Bretton near Wakefield. The Hepworth museum as part of the Tate in St Ives contains sculptures in bronze, stone and wood along with paintings, drawings and archive material.

A quotation by Barbara Hepworth resonates with me when I post short pages to the Gods Own County site, ‘Halfway through any work, one is often tempted to go off on a tangent. Once you have yielded, you will be tempted to yield again and again… Finally, you would only produce something hybrid.’

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Graham Ramsden Flickr

Graham Ramsden Flickr

It may go back to the monks of Jervaux Abbey who were reputed to be horse breeders. ,Did King Richard the third exercise on ‘Low Moor’?  Or is it  down to the Middleham racecourse that opened in 1739. What ever the reason Middleham  is known for its stiff winds, ‘High Moor’ and strong air and being a great base for Racehorse training. Set high in Wensleydale, trainers, jockeys and horses alike can enjoy sensational scenery also enjoyed by many visitors. It is common place to see the horses on the gallops or if you stay in bed and breakfast or a local hostelry you may be woken by the early string on its way to exercise on the common land that is the Moor.

Gaitowners were those who have grazing rights over the land and they caused problem and injury to horses in the holes left by grazing cattle. Horses are now such a large part of the economy in Middleham that sensible arrangements have been created to allow the exercise and training to takle place on undamaged ground.

Issac Cape of Tupgill Park stables may have been the first trainer to be based in Middleham. Many famous racehorses have been trained here including Derby winners Pretender 1869 and Dante 1945 and St Ledger winner Theodore. Another trainer Neville Crump turned out three Grand National winners from his famous yard Warwick House Stables, Sheila’s Cottage 1948, Teal 1952 and Merryman II 1960. More results and history from 1800 on Yorkshire Racing.

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